Mama Testa

Submitted by jon on Sun, 08/30/2009 - 05:18

1417 University Ave
San Diego, CA (map)
Official website

First, the Food Network thing. I read a lot of reviews for Mama Testa where people have seen the fish taco throw down with Bobby Flay and come here with weird expectations. Stop that. The restaurant has never been about fish tacos, and they don't even do them in the style most people are used to. So forget about the Food Network thing and try something besides just the fish tacos. Or.... better yet.... try one of the only unique fish tacos in San Diego.

Bottomline - This is an authentic taco place in a fancier setting. More tacos styles than you'll find anywhere else. Delicious food.

The menu here seems pretty simple - soft tacos, crunchy tacos, and steamed tacos. Don't let that fool you. The stews are great, and there are some creative dishes like the crunchy rolled tacos in broth. It may be just tacos, but you'll likely see some things you've never encountered before. Also, don't let the Hillcrest hipster location color your opinion, the place is legit. The owner is from Mexico and is dedicated to real authenticity.

The salsa bar is also a star here. The generic red and green sauces are gone, replaced with 9 complex sauces plus other toppings. With all of those flavors you can really customize the food you get. So be sure to sample anything that loks good so you know what to put on your tacos. Especially with the little street tacos, you aren't suppose to just eat them as is. You could of course, but try some salsa.

There are a couple problems. The prices are higher than you'd pay for great street tacos at places like El Paisa or La Fachada. You'll have to decide whether the bigger menu, nicer neighborhood, and better salsa bar make up for that. The seating is also an issue. When only a few people are there it's fine, but when the place is full you'll end up bumping and being bumped a bit. Sitting outside might be better.

For me those things don't really matter. When you combine the quality food with the diverse menu you have a real winner here. Mama Testa is a restaurant that has taken a chance and tried something truly different, and made it work beautifully.

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